 |
FELINE HOUSE-SOILING
House-soiling in cats, also called feline inappropriate
elimination, is the most common behavioral complaint of cat
owners. Problem behaviors can be urine and/or stool
deposited outside of the litter box, or marking behaviors.
When cats urinate on vertical surfaces, it is known as
spraying. Usually the cat backs up to a vertical surface,
raises their tail, treads with their back feet, the tail may
quiver and a stream of urine is directed backwards. Marking
includes spraying urine on vertical locations but on
occasion may be presented as elimination of small amounts on
horizontal surfaces. Rarely, if ever is stool used for
marking. In this handout we will discuss the cat that is
house-soiling. For marking behavior see our separate handout
‘Marking behaviors in cats’
Could there be a medical reason that my cat is
house-soiling?
Medical diseases of the urinary tract can cause
inappropriate elimination. There are many such conditions,
including stones and crystal formation in the bladder,
bacterial infections, and a group of inflammatory diseases
of the bladder and urinary tract of unknown origin that
cause pain and an increased urgency to urinate. Diseases of
the kidneys and liver can cause the cat to drink more and
urinate more frequently. In addition, age related cognitive
(brain function) decline and endocrine disorders such as
hyperthyroidism and diabetes, might lead to changes in
elimination habits including house-soiling. Medical problems
that lead to a difficulty or discomfort in passing stools,
poor control or an increased frequency of defecation could
all contribute to house-soiling with stools. Colitis,
constipation, and anal sac diseases, are just a few of the
medical problems that need to be ruled out when diagnosing
the cause of inappropriate defecation. Another consideration
is the pet’s mobility and sensory function. Medical
conditions affecting the nerves, muscles, or joints, could
lead to enough discomfort, stiffness or weakness that the
cat may not be able to get to the litterbox, climb into the
litterbox, or get into a comfortable position for
elimination.
In summary, if elimination is associated with pain or
discomfort, or if access to the litterbox is difficult or
uncomfortable the cat may begin to eliminate outside of the
box. In addition, those cats with increased frequency of
elimination (especially if the litter box is not cleaned
more frequently) and those with decreased control may begin
to soil the house. A complete physical examination,
urinalysis and in some cases additional diagnostic tests
such as blood tests, radiographs or a urine culture, will be
needed to rule out medical problems that could be causing or
contributing to the cat’s elimination problem. Some problems
may be transient or recurrent so that repeated tests may be
needed to diagnose the problem. For some problems that
cannot be entirely resolved, adjustments may need to be made
to the box or its location to accommodate the needs of the
cat. For example, moving the box to an area that is more
easily accessible, improving lighting or providing a larger
box with lower sides, might be necessary for a cat that has
arthritis, declining sensory function or cognitive decline.
Once a cat has persistently eliminated outside of the litter
box for medical reasons, the cat may learn to eliminate in
the wrong location. Therefore, even if the medical problem
has been resolved, behavioral therapy may be needed to
re-establish regular use of the box.
What could the problem be if it is not medical?
Diagnostic possibilities for elimination problems in cats
include litter, litter box, and location aversions, and
substrate and location preferences. Frustration or stress
might also influence feline elimination behavior. Keep in
mind that the initiating cause of house-soiling may have
been medical or a change in the environment and may still be
ongoing or may have already been resolved. However, once the
cat has learned to eliminate somewhere other than the litter
box, the problem may be maintained. When frustration,
stress, anxiety, or marking are suspected to be the cause,
drug therapy and behavior modification techniques may be
effective. See our separate handout on ‘Marking behaviors in
cats’ for treatment.
How do we determine the behavioral cause?
When all medical problems have been treated or ruled out and
the house-soiling persists, a complete and comprehensive
behavioral history will be necessary in order to establish a
diagnosis and treatment plan. This includes information
about the home environment, litter box type and litter used,
litter box maintenance and placement, and the onset,
frequency, duration and progression of problem elimination
behaviors. Other factors to note include new pets in the
household, any household changes that might have occurred
around the time the problem began, and any patterns to the
elimination such as the time of day, particular days of the
week, or seasonal variations. Relationships between the
soiling cat and other animals and people in the home need to
be examined. The number and placement of litter boxes is
extremely important in multi-cat households and if
inappropriate or undesirable for one or more of the cats,
may contribute to the house-soiling.
Other information required is whether the cat is using the
litter box at all, and the location of inappropriate
elimination including types of surface, whether on
horizontal or vertical surfaces, and whether it is urine,
stools or both.
How do I determine which cat is eliminating when there is
more than one cat?
When there are multiple cats in the home, it may be
difficult to determine who is actually soiling. Confinement
of one or more cats may be necessary to discover who is not
using the litter box. However, if social conflicts between
cats contribute to the problem, separating cats may make the
problem diminish or stop. A fluorescent dye can be
administered to one cat, and the soiled areas can then be
evaluated with a “black” light to determine if that is the
cat that is house-soiling. However, results are not always
consistent and the dye may stain some carpets. Therefore,
the best solution may be to place a video camera in the area
where the soiling occurs. For stool elimination a small
amount of a non-toxic colored crayon can be chopped and
mixed into the food of one of the cats.
What can I try first?
Although correcting house-soiling can take a great deal of
time and effort and may require a fairly extensive
behavioral assessment, there are cases when a few simple
suggestions might do the trick. You can start with
determining if you made a change to the litter or litter
area around the time the problem started and switch back to
the preferred litter or site. Alternately try a different
litter such as one that is clumping. Cleaning the soiled
spots with odor eliminators may help prevent re-soiling.
Insure that there is one more litter box than the number of
cats in the home, in at least two different locations.
Consider putting one of the boxes near to the area where the
soiling occurs. Clean the boxes daily and change the boxes
weekly. If after a couple of weeks the problem has not
resolved, then a more intense evaluation of the factors that
might be causing the problem will be needed and a variety of
treatment protocols may need to be utilized.
What are the general treatments for elimination problems?
Treatment focuses on re-establishing regular litter box
usage. The litter material, box and location may need to be
made more appealing (or remove those factors that are
reducing the appeal). The cat will need to be prevented or
deterred from returning to the soiled areas, and if there is
an anxiety or marking component drugs may be useful. Litter
trials (using two or more litter types), location trials
(using two or more locations) and litter box trials (using
two or more different box types) may be useful for
determining the cat’s preferences. Commonly the cat will
need to be confined when it can’t be supervised. The first
step however may be to review the basics of litter box
training (See our handout on ‘House-training – using the
litter box’ for details).
What factors should I look at to correct this problem?
Two areas that need to be addressed are litter box
maintenance and litter box location. Litter box maintenance
refers to how the box is cleaned. For some cats, it is
necessary to keep the litter box scrupulously clean. This
means cleaning the box at least once a day and removing
stool and moist areas of urine. Litter boxes should be
totally emptied and cleaned approximately once a week. Avoid
strong detergents or cleaners that might leave a residual
odor since this may add to the aversion. Clumping litters
seem to be preferred by a majority of (but certainly not
all) cats. It may be easier to keep clean since the waste
material can be scooped at least once a day, and the entire
box may only need to be changed and cleaned every two to
four weeks. However, remember to refill any scooped material
to maintain the level of litter. Some clumping litters
produce very firm clumps that are less likely to break apart
(and may not be flushable). These litters might be
considered to maintain even greater cleanliness. There is
even a litter box that is self-cleaning after each litter
use. While some cats seem to appreciate this level of
cleanliness, there are others who may avoid the new box or
the electric cleaning mechanism.
The choice of litter material is important. Some cats prefer
a plain clay litter material without any odor control matter
added. Other cats may prefer fine clay litter materials that
clump and allow for frequent, easy litter box cleaning. A
litter preference test can help to determine which type your
cat favors (discussed below).
If the same litter box has been used for several years it
may hold a residual odor. Discard the old one and obtain a
new one. Another factor that may need to be considered is
the type of litter box. If the cat has always used a covered
litter pan, a change in body composition or mobility may
make removing the cover important. If a cat has become
overweight, it may no longer fit comfortably in a covered
pan (or even in the uncovered pan that you are presently
using. As mentioned, an elderly cat may also find climbing
into an uncovered pan, or a litterbox with lower sides, much
easier. A covered pan may allow other cats to ambush a cat
as they exit. And, covered pans may hold in odors that are
associated with infrequent cleaning. A litter box preference
test can help to determine which box your cat favors
(discussed below).
The location of the litter pan can often be important for
cats that do not use their litter box. Some cats may be
unwilling to use a box that is difficult or inconvenient to
access, or if the box is located in an area that the cat
finds unappealing or unpleasant. For example, a box that is
in the far recesses of the basement or near a furnace or
washing machine may be undesirable. Older cats can find
stairs an obstacle and be unwilling to go into the basement
to use the litter box.
When there are multiple cats in the home, multiple pans in
multiple locations may be needed. It is speculated that cats
may not share the space they have equally, and be unwilling
to go to some locations to use the litter box. If the
relationship between cats is not harmonious, one cat may
feel threatened when trying to get to the litter box and
choose to go elsewhere. Most cats prefer privacy when they
eliminate. If the litter box is located in a high traffic or
noisy area in the home, the cat may avoid it. Moving the pan
to another quieter location may encourage the cat to return
to litter box use. A location preference test can help to
determine which location your cat favors (discussed below)
How can I determine why my cat is house-soiling?
A cat may not use the litter box if it prefers another
location or substrate, which may arise independently or
because of avoidance of the present location or substrate. A
substrate or location preference can be diagnosed by a
careful history into where the elimination is found. If it
is always found in one place, this indicates a location
preference, while elimination on one particular surface type
or texture (such as carpeting or tiled floors), indicates a
substrate preference. Of course a preference for more than
one location or more than one surface may also arise, and
they are not mutually exclusive. For treatment, if it is
happening in only one or two places, the problem might be
resolved by preventing your cat from having access to that
location unless it is supervised. When no one is home, or
you are asleep, the cat may need to be confined. When you
are at home, you should always know where the cat is. This
can be accomplished by watching the cat or by using a bell
on an approved cat collar or a leash and harness.
Alternately, the location could be made aversive to the cat
using devices mentioned in other sections (see our product
resource handout). If the cat does not like where the litter
box is located, due to disruptions in that location or
inability to access the box, moving the box to a quieter,
more secure location may also aid in getting the cat to
return to regular litter box usage. Alternately, the surface
can be made less appealing by changing the surface texture
(remove the carpeting), or by making the surface
uncomfortable (double-sided sticky tape, a plastic carpet
runner with nubs up, remote punishment or booby-traps). In
some cases, closing off doors can permanently prevent access
to the area to the area, by putting up barricades, or
confining the cat away from the problem area. The appeal of
the surface can also be reduced by eliminating all odors
that might be attracting the cat back to the area by
cleaning and then by applying commercial odor neutralizers
(See our product resource handout for more details).
Sometimes changing the function of the area by turning it
into a feeding, playing, sleeping or scratching area may
reduce the cat’s desire to eliminate in the area. Relatively
speaking, making the soiled areas less appealing (by odor
eliminators, less appealing surfaces or booby traps), may
get the cat back to using its litter, or may drive the cat
to a new unacceptable area (which might indicate that the
problem is more likely one of avoidance). Therefore, you
also need to make sure the litter box itself appeals to the
cat.
How can we make the litter, litter box and area more
appealing?
Besides making the location where the cat has eliminated
aversive or inaccessible, the litter box needs to be made
attractive to the cat. From the history, it may be possible
to first determine some of the reasons that might be
deterring the cat from using its litter box or litter area
and these can first be resolved to increase the appeal of
the litter. For example, more frequent cleaning, or
switching litter materials may be useful, for other cats
offering a different type of box is necessary. Then, try to
determine what litter, location, and type of box might be
preferable to your cat.
How can I tell what my cat would prefer?
To determine the most suitable litter for your cat, first
determine what type of litter your cat seems to be avoiding
and what type of surface your cat prefers to use. Then set
up two or more boxes that are identical and fill the boxes
with two different types of litter (litter box cafeteria).
Some cats may prefer a clumping litter, cedar shavings,
recycled newspaper, or plastic pearls. For cats that prefer
solid or hard surfaces, an empty litter box, or one with
minimal litter might do. A carpeted ledge around the box,
artificial turf or some discarded or shredded carpet might
help to increase the appeal for cats that prefer to
eliminate on carpets, while some potting soil or a mixture
of sand and soil, may be preferable for cats that eliminate
in plants or soil. Making a good choice may require a little
imagination and should be based on the type of surfaces in
the home on which the cat is eliminating. If you prefer
scented brands of litters, make sure this is also acceptable
to your cat by comparing to an unscented brand. In your
preference testing, if you find one litter type that is a
clear favorite, discard the second type and continue your
testing with other products. There are also commercial
litter box attractants that might be useful.
To determine the most suitable box for your cat, you might
want to look at the design of the box and find different
types for preference testing. Use the litter type that was
most preferable to the cat and try it in a variety of boxes
to determine what the cat prefers. You might consider boxes
with hoods and no hoods, a very large box, such as a plastic
storage container, a box with lower sides or a ramp for
access, boxes with or without litter liners and perhaps even
self-cleaning types of litter boxes (appealing to some cats
and frightening to others).
To determine if the cat has a clear location preference, you
might begin by a litter box in the location where the cat
eliminates. If the cat uses the box in that location, it
should be left there for one week. Then the box can slowly
be moved to a new location. This needs to be done very
carefully to be sure that the cat follows the box and
continues to eliminate in the litter box as it is moved.
Most importantly, the box should be moved only 6-8 inches at
a time. Then it should be left in each place at least one
day. When trying to go from one room to another, or up or
down stairs, longer distances can be covered as long as the
cat follows the box and continues to use it. A room with
better access or lighting or an area with more or less
privacy from owners and other pets might be preferred. By
altering the location of the litter box you might even be
able to find something that has been deterring the cat
(toilet, furnace etc) in the previous location.
I’ve made the litter more appealing and the house-soiling
areas less appealing but the cat continues to eliminate in
inappropriate areas. What next?
Even after making the litter area more appealing, decreasing
the appeal of the soiled areas, and perhaps anti-anxiety
drugs for anxiety induced or marking problems, the habit may
persist. Confinement to an area with bedding, water and a
litter box (and away from the areas that have been soiled)
is often necessary to re-establish litter box use. Generally
a small room such as a laundry room, extra washroom, or
bedroom where the cat has not previously soiled should be
utilized. Also be sure to confine your pet in an area where
the litter box and litter area are appealing, where there
are no obvious deterrents, and that has surfaces that the
cat is unlikely to soil. In rare cases where the cat will
not use its litter box at all, confinement in a cat cage
with perches or a large dog cage with a floor pan covered in
litter and a ledge for perching and sleeping may be needed
to get the litter use restarted. Most cats will require
confinement to this area for one to four weeks, (the longer
the problem the longer the confinement period) to
re-establish good litter use. Confinement may not be
required all of the time. For example, if the cat only
eliminates out of its box at night, or when the owners are
preparing for work, then these are the only times that the
cat may need to be confined. Many cats, when supervised will
not eliminate in the inappropriate areas so that these cats
can be allowed out of confinement when the owner is
available to supervise. It may also be possible to allow
cats out of confinement with minimal supervision for the
first few hours after the cat has eliminated in its litter
box. Allowing release from confinement and some food treats
immediately following elimination may also serve to reward
use of the litter box. Over time, cats that have been
confined are gradually given more freedom and less
supervision. However, there will be some cats that will use
the box in confinement, but once back out in the home will
revert to elimination in other locations.
My cat is defecating outside of the litter box, what should
I do?
Medical problems must first be ruled out. Therefore careful
attention to the cat’s general health and mobility as well
as to stool consistency and frequency are critical. Cats may
defecate outside of the litter box if they have colitis or
are constipated. Observation of the elimination may help to
rule out pain and avoidance issues. If the defecation is
found in a linear pattern be sure to ask about intercat
aggression (the cat is defecating while fleeing) and
possible constipation. Once medical problems have been
identified and treated defecation outside of the box is
diagnosed and treated in much the same manner as for
urination housesoiling. It may be caused by substrate or
location preferences or the problem may arise out of
avoidance of the present litter, box or location. Treatment
includes preference testing to find the preferred litter,
box and area while preventing or deterring use of
inappropriate areas. Confinement and supervision training
can be particularly useful for inappropriate defecation.
Start with a regular routine of feeding and play sessions
and keep a diary of when and where the pet eliminates.
Confinement may only be necessary at times when the pet may
be due for defecation. The cat might then be allowed out of
its litter confinement area until defecation is again due,
at which time the pet should be closely supervised to
inhibit and encourage regular use or again confined.
How will I know if the problem is improving?
Good record keeping is essential to gauge treatment success.
In many cases there will be an increase in litter box use
and a concurrent decrease of elimination in other locations
prior to a total and complete return to litter box usage.
Therefore keeping track of where elimination takes place on
a daily basis should help track improvement or the lack of
change. If elimination in the litter box is not increasing,
changes to the treatment plan or an alternate diagnosis may
need to be considered.
Are drugs useful in treating this problem?
Drug therapy can be a helpful adjunct where stress, anxiety,
marking or a medical component is involved. It requires a
thorough understanding of the indications, contraindications
and potential side effects of the various drugs. An accurate
diagnosis is needed to determine if such therapy will be
helpful and which drug to choose. If the behavior is due to
a surface substrate preference, location preference or any
type of aversion, drug therapy is unlikely to be helpful.
Commonly used drugs include buspirone, anti-depressants and
benzodiazepines. |
|
| |
Cherokee Trail Hours:
8:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Monday thru Friday
8:00 AM - 1:00 PM
Saturday
Appointments Preferred |
|
|
