 |
FELINE AGGRESSION: TERRITORIAL AND FEAR AGGRESSION TO
HOUSEHOLD CATS
What is territorial aggression?
Territorial aggression may be exhibited toward people or
other animals (usually cats) that approach or reside on the
pet’s property. Aggression can occur toward outside cats or
to cats that live in the same household, especially new cats
coming into the territory. This can occur with the addition
of another cat, or when resident cats reach social maturity
at 1-2 years of age. Another situation is when one cat is
removed from the household (perhaps for routine surgery or
boarding), and aggression is exhibited when the cat is
brought back into the home. This aggression may be a
combination of territorial and fear based aggression
(perhaps the returning cat smells, looks or acts unfamiliar
in some way).
Territorial aggression can manifest as stalking, chasing and
aggressive encounters, which may lead to injury. At times
the aggressor will prevent the victim from having access to
certain areas of the home, resulting in a cat that lives on
top of furniture, bookshelves or under beds. This may in
part be related to the social relationship (status) of each
cat and can lead to other problems such as house soiling and
non-litter box use. Although the aggression of one cat to
another may be due to territoriality, there are also
components of fear, sociability and social status that
contribute equally, or perhaps in some cases more, to the
aggressive response. (See our handout on ‘Aggression –
introduction to aggressive behavior’).
How can territorial aggression be prevented?
Territorial aggression can be prevented or minimized with
early socialization, patient and slow introductions of new
cats, and adequate resources, including litter boxes and
food bowls plus sufficient space for climbing, hiding and
dispersing. However, when a new cat is introduced (or
reintroduced) into a household with existing cats, problems
can best be prevented by slowly introducing the new cat to
the environment, by keeping the new cat in a separate room
with water and kitty litter, and by supervising all
interactions. The correct time to begin cat-to-cat
interactions can be highly variable. If both cats have had
adequate socialization with other cats, and are not too
timid or fearful, it may only be a matter of a few days to a
few weeks before the cats work things out on their own and
are able to share the territory with little or no aggressive
displays. However, in some homes, the aggression between
cats persists. In these cases, a lengthy separation is
likely to be required in addition to a more formal
desensitization and counter-conditioning program.
What is the best way to safely introduce (or reintroduce) a
cat into the household?
In order to ensure that there are no injuries and that all
introductions are positive, a desensitization and
counter-conditioning program is the best way to ease or
re-introduce a cat into a household (See our handouts on
behavior modification, systematic desensitization, feline
fear and multi-cat households).
Begin by confining the “new” cat to a room or portion of the
home with its own litter box, food, bedding, perching area,
play toys and water. Allow the existing cat to continue to
have access to the rest of the home. This arrangement
provides a separate territory within the home for each cat,
and allows both cats an opportunity to adapt to the smell
and sounds of each other, without the possibility of direct
contact or physical confrontation. If the new cat is housed
in a screened-in porch or a room with a glass door, it may
also be possible to allow the cats to see each other through
a safe partition. Be certain to provide sufficient play,
social interactions and even a little reward training with
each of the cats. If you are planning to use a crate or a
harness and leash for exposure exercises, be certain to
spend some time training the cats to accept the harness and
to get accustomed to their crates. A Feliway™ diffuser or
Feliway™ spray on the cat’s bedding or in its crate may help
each cat to adapt and settle more quickly. Offer small meal
portions (rather than free choice feeding) and treats on
opposite sides of the common doorway to increase the
proximity of the cats. Remember that, by separating the
cats, you are not only providing an opportunity for them to
adapt to the presence of the other cat, but also to prevent
threats, fearful displays and attacks which would only add
to the fear and anxiety. When the cats show no fear,
anxiety, or threat toward each other behind closed doors, it
may be useful to switch positions, with the other cat
confined while the new cat is allowed household access. The
next step is to progress to controlled exposure exercises.
Training should occur when the cats can be occupied in a
highly “rewarding” activity such as feeding, play, or
treats. Provided both cats are far enough apart to minimize
the possibility of aggression, and the reward is
sufficiently appealing, the cats will focus on the rewards
rather than each other. In addition, if the rewards are
saved exclusively for these introduction times, the cats
will quickly learn to expect “good things to happen” in the
presence of each other (counter-conditioning). In addition
to ensuring that the cats are at a safe enough distance to
minimize fear, both cats (or at least the one that is likely
to be the aggressor) can be confined to an open wire mesh
cage or a body harness and leash. This will ensure that the
cats can neither escape nor injure each other, and provides
a practical means for controlling distance between the cats
for desensitization and counter-conditioning. If the cats
have been in cages during the first training session, they
can be placed in each other’s cages at the next session (so
that each cat is exposed to the other cat’s odor). Using
cage confinement of one or both cats, or a leash and harness
on one or both cats, the cats can be brought progressively
closer at each subsequent feeding session, as long as there
has been no fear or anxiety and both remain interested in
the food. Over time the cats are fed closer together until a
point where the cats can eat or take treats in each other’s
presence.
Another way to integrate cats is with play therapy. Some
cats are more interested in play, toys or catnip than they
are in food. One of the best toys is a wand or fishing rod
handle with a stimulating play toy such as a catnip mouse or
feathers on the end for chasing and pouncing. Begin by
having both cats play at a distance from each other. Again,
one cat can be kept in a crate with food while the other is
out with play therapy. A leash and harness can also be used
to ensure success. Over time, introduce the toys between the
cats and let them play with the toys together.
What if the aggression between the cats persists?
Introductions must be done slowly. The cats need to be far
enough apart that they are relaxed and will take food or a
treat while in the presence of the other cat. If the cats
will not eat then they are too anxious and probably too
close together, and the introductions are not accomplishing
the goal of learning to associate the other cat with
pleasant things. If the cats will not eat in each other’s
presence, try moving the dishes further apart. If one or
both of the cats still will not eat, separate the cats, do
not give any food, and repeat introductions with food in a
couple of hours. If the cats eat at that time, repeat using
the same distance at the next feeding. If things go well,
the next time the dishes can be moved closer together, but
only by a small increment. If introductions where the cats
can see one another are not successful, you will have to
start with a much milder level of the stimulus. You might
begin by keeping the cats in their own rooms and feeding on
opposite sides of the door. A glass or screen door would
then allow you to add the stimulus of sight while you feed
the cats on opposite sides of the door. While they are
usually aware of the other cat, the fear or anxiety might be
diminished and the cat will eat. Next, the door might be
propped open a few inches so that the cats can see each
other while they eat. Cats that are too anxious or
aggressive for even this type of introduction may get more
quickly accustomed to the other cat if a cloth or brush is
used to rub and groom one of the cats and then used on the
other cat while giving favored food and treats.
This is a slow process; you cannot rush things. Allowing
either cat to interact in an aggressive manner sets the
program back. The cats must remain separated except during
times such as feeding when the cats are distracted,
occupied, and engaged in an enjoyable act. In other words,
good things are associated with the presence of the other
cat. If the cats are doing well, you might want to increase
their time together. However, if there are specific times,
specific resources or specific areas of the home where
threats or aggression are likely to recur, long term or
permanent separation at all times except for supervised
social play, feeding and training might be necessary.
Although preventing recurrence is the goal, there may be
occasions where aggression begins to recur. At the earliest
signs of fear or anxiety, it would be preferable to distract
the cats with a “come” command (if command reward trained),
or by pulling on the leash and harness, if one has been left
attached. In this way the aggressor is inhibited and the
fearful cat (which might be stimulating further chase and
attack by the aggressor) may begin to feel more confident
when the owner is around to supervise and inhibit.
Counter-condition and reward the fearful cat for not running
away. Reward and counter-condition the aggressor cat if it
comes to you, settles down and leaves the other cat alone.
With enough different litter boxes, climbing areas and
places to hide, it should be possible for many cats to adapt
and remain together (or perhaps be separated while the
owners cannot supervise). Another option is to install an
electronic cat door through which one cat can escape to its
own room. These cat doors will only open for the cat wearing
the activation collar.
Despite slow and careful progression, some cats may continue
to display aggression, and it may be necessary to accept
that they may never be compatible housemates. Although cats
do live in social groups, they also have the opportunity to
leave them if they do not feel welcome. The social groups we
create in the home do not provide that opportunity. The only
way to avoid territorial competition in these cats may be to
find a new home for one of the cats, or to provide separate
living quarters for each cat within the home. If the cats
get along at certain times of the day, they can then be
allowed limited exposure and interaction at these times. A
leash and harness, or perhaps an air horn or water rifle,
could be used to safely separate the cats should any
aggressive displays emerge. If the problem is too severe, it
may be helpful to medicate one or both cats. The option of
drug therapy should be discussed with your veterinarian. |
|
| |
Cherokee Trail Hours:
8:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Monday thru Friday
8:00 AM - 1:00 PM
Saturday
Appointments Preferred |
|
|
